Sudan 2011
The oldest posts are at the bottom of the page.
The map has no route marked due to the fact that we went off course to Port Sudan.
November 7th 2011
Driving is a necessary, but boring part of this trip. Today we had to do a very long drive to get from Khartoum to the Ethiopian border. Due to banditry we couldn't stop in between. The border was closed when we got close, so we had to camp. We drove well off the road and parked behind a giant rock. It may have been sneaky, except our bright orange truck stands out anywhere. Thankfully, we only met a local farmer who was collecting wood. He was easily placated with some of our breakfast sausages.
For lunch Chris made a very strange contraption. He placed corn, tuna, and mustard in a bun for us. Apparently this is a common lunch for the Brits. Weird bunch...
Driving is a necessary, but boring part of this trip. Today we had to do a very long drive to get from Khartoum to the Ethiopian border. Due to banditry we couldn't stop in between. The border was closed when we got close, so we had to camp. We drove well off the road and parked behind a giant rock. It may have been sneaky, except our bright orange truck stands out anywhere. Thankfully, we only met a local farmer who was collecting wood. He was easily placated with some of our breakfast sausages.
For lunch Chris made a very strange contraption. He placed corn, tuna, and mustard in a bun for us. Apparently this is a common lunch for the Brits. Weird bunch...
November 6th 2011
Sudanese family home
We met a Sudanese family in Wadi Halfa who invited us to stay with them. We went to their home to celebrate Eid. We were warned of a party lasting until 5am with henna, relatives and a bloody goat slaughter, but things turned out very differently. For reasons that are confused in translation, it turned into more of a hang out. The best reasoning we got was something about a death, an aunt, and no goats. Your guess is as good as mine. Although it was very disappointing, it was nice to see how a Sudanese family lives.
November 5th 2011
Hand carved boats
Khartoum's sites are mainly mosques and markets - practical things. We went to the Dinka Market, a local wood market. Men sat carving canes, statues, and boats out of blocks of ebony. I purchased a few items, since we needed to use up our remaining Sudanese money. The black market money trade makes it very difficult to trade Sudanese money into any other currency. However, we were able to trade USD to Sudanese pounds at 4:1, rather than the official 2.6:1. It meant that everyone got an extra 40% on their budget!
November 4th 2011
We went to our hotel early this morning. It is well located and best of all has no fleas. It is run by a Chinese company so no one at the desk speaks English. There are lots of Chinese power and oil workers in Khartoum. The hotel has internet and free toothbrushes which more than makes up for the communication challenges as mine is looking really scruffy.
Until my shower (the first one equal to a north American shower in 11 days) I was under the impression that I was tanned. The more soap I used, the more my tan faded. Turned out about seven shades of my tan was in fact dirt.
I met a very interesting man today. He will remain unnamed for his own benefit. He moved as a refugee to the USA from the Sudan when he was a very young man. He lived with a Christian family during that time, who helped him to 'find God'. He became a Christian himself and practiced in the States for several years. As he aged, his family urged him to come back to the Sudan; as he was their oldest son, and he had many responsibilities. He recently moved back and is now planning for his wedding. It will occur on December 26th. He has never met his bride to be. He has to purchase ten camels and ten cows for her father prior to the wedding. He cannot afford this, but his parents were so desperate to get him to come home that they are helping him pay for the animals. He expects to have earned enough to pay for the animals by mid December, around a week early. He told us this story over a cup of tea; which he did not let us pay for. His parents do not know he has converted, as it would be the end of their relationship. Instead, he goes for long walks five times a day when he should be praying. We met him on one of those walks.
In the evening we went to a Sufi dancing show. It was supposed to be a stage show put on by the whirling dervish dancers. Our request got lost in translation and we were brought to a church where the Sufis (members of which put on the show on the opposite side of town) pray on Friday nights. We were the only white faces in the crowd, as everyone else was there to pray. They wore extravagant outfits and danced while chanting. In essence, we saved the price of admission and got to see the authentic Sufi dancing, rather than a choreographed dance; what good luck!
Until my shower (the first one equal to a north American shower in 11 days) I was under the impression that I was tanned. The more soap I used, the more my tan faded. Turned out about seven shades of my tan was in fact dirt.
I met a very interesting man today. He will remain unnamed for his own benefit. He moved as a refugee to the USA from the Sudan when he was a very young man. He lived with a Christian family during that time, who helped him to 'find God'. He became a Christian himself and practiced in the States for several years. As he aged, his family urged him to come back to the Sudan; as he was their oldest son, and he had many responsibilities. He recently moved back and is now planning for his wedding. It will occur on December 26th. He has never met his bride to be. He has to purchase ten camels and ten cows for her father prior to the wedding. He cannot afford this, but his parents were so desperate to get him to come home that they are helping him pay for the animals. He expects to have earned enough to pay for the animals by mid December, around a week early. He told us this story over a cup of tea; which he did not let us pay for. His parents do not know he has converted, as it would be the end of their relationship. Instead, he goes for long walks five times a day when he should be praying. We met him on one of those walks.
In the evening we went to a Sufi dancing show. It was supposed to be a stage show put on by the whirling dervish dancers. Our request got lost in translation and we were brought to a church where the Sufis (members of which put on the show on the opposite side of town) pray on Friday nights. We were the only white faces in the crowd, as everyone else was there to pray. They wore extravagant outfits and danced while chanting. In essence, we saved the price of admission and got to see the authentic Sufi dancing, rather than a choreographed dance; what good luck!
November 3rd 2011
I'd like to wish my mom a very happy birthday! Without her I wouldn't be in Africa right now!
The Monroe Pyramids are the most famous in Sudan. They are smaller than the Egyptian ones, but there are more of them. A long time ago an Italian man paid the Sudanese Government in order to have excavation rights to the area. He got bored of the slow progress traditional methods were providing him, so he bought some dynamite. He did find a few treasures, however he also succeeded in blowing most of the pyramids up. There was an attempt at reconstruction in 1979, but the work is very conspicuous. We also visited the Naga Temples today, they are my favorite ones so far! There was a temple devoted to a lion god, which was in great condition.
We were supposed to camp next to the temples, but the police kicked us out. They made us drive another 4 hours to the nearest town, Khartoum. We had to sleep in the parking lot of the Blue Nile Yacht Club. Khartoum only has high end hotels for the oil workers and one or two mid range ones. The mid range hotels were full, so we were stuck in the parking lot!
We're parked next to another overland truck. This one is for one family, rather than a group. They have a sleeper cabin on top, a big tv for the nights and a shower inside. Now they really are living the dream.
I haven't seen any mosquitoes yet. I don't think they actually exist here, after all, where would mosquitoes breed in the desert? We are taking antimalarial medication which makes for dramatic travel companions. I get sick every night and have really vivid dreams. Other people are taking Larium, which is much cheaper, but has the side affect of making you irrational and irritable. It's clearly working on a few people...
The Monroe Pyramids are the most famous in Sudan. They are smaller than the Egyptian ones, but there are more of them. A long time ago an Italian man paid the Sudanese Government in order to have excavation rights to the area. He got bored of the slow progress traditional methods were providing him, so he bought some dynamite. He did find a few treasures, however he also succeeded in blowing most of the pyramids up. There was an attempt at reconstruction in 1979, but the work is very conspicuous. We also visited the Naga Temples today, they are my favorite ones so far! There was a temple devoted to a lion god, which was in great condition.
We were supposed to camp next to the temples, but the police kicked us out. They made us drive another 4 hours to the nearest town, Khartoum. We had to sleep in the parking lot of the Blue Nile Yacht Club. Khartoum only has high end hotels for the oil workers and one or two mid range ones. The mid range hotels were full, so we were stuck in the parking lot!
We're parked next to another overland truck. This one is for one family, rather than a group. They have a sleeper cabin on top, a big tv for the nights and a shower inside. Now they really are living the dream.
I haven't seen any mosquitoes yet. I don't think they actually exist here, after all, where would mosquitoes breed in the desert? We are taking antimalarial medication which makes for dramatic travel companions. I get sick every night and have really vivid dreams. Other people are taking Larium, which is much cheaper, but has the side affect of making you irrational and irritable. It's clearly working on a few people...
November 2nd 2011
This morning we had a lazy start before leaving on a long drive. We're heading back the way we came, on route to Atbada. We made a stop in Port Sudan for internet, food, and water.
Along the way, we drove through the desert. We came across a coach that was stuck in the sand. We attached ourselves to them and pulled them out. They rewarded us with ice cold cola and non-alcoholic beer.
While there I spoke to Sudanese man and had a revelation:
We must look pretty funny when we drive into a town. This great big orange truck pulls into town. The truck doors open and out comes a bunch of dirty, weirdly dressed white people.
A man we met today asked us about our trip. He was confused and asked why we carried a bunch of firewood on the back of the truck. He asked 'is that so your women can still cook while you're in the hotels?"
Along the way, we drove through the desert. We came across a coach that was stuck in the sand. We attached ourselves to them and pulled them out. They rewarded us with ice cold cola and non-alcoholic beer.
While there I spoke to Sudanese man and had a revelation:
We must look pretty funny when we drive into a town. This great big orange truck pulls into town. The truck doors open and out comes a bunch of dirty, weirdly dressed white people.
A man we met today asked us about our trip. He was confused and asked why we carried a bunch of firewood on the back of the truck. He asked 'is that so your women can still cook while you're in the hotels?"
November 1st 2011
There is no alcohol in Sudan. No beer, no spirits, no rubbing alcohol even. It makes this resort very different than the typical Caribbean resort. The biggest difference though; and you really shouldn't be surprised to read this by now, is that there is no one here!! The entire place is empty except for one other group. There are two older women, a young woman, and a man here. They are visiting for the day. It is the young couples first date, and their mothers are chaperoning. Our tour leader, Chris (the funniest Irish man I've ever met; also, the only) and I sat in the veranda next to them at lunch. Two huge meat platters and a fruit platter were brought over to us. Apparently, when trying to woo someone in Sudan it is important for the man to show his wealth and generosity, hence the meals he sent our way.
You can't really tan here. Besides the fact that most of the time we're covered from elbow to calves, the sun is really not powerful. It may be our latitude (sun is strongest at poles) or the time of year (October to December is winter here), but sunscreen isn't necessary. This means we can sit outside all day with no worries.
You can't really tan here. Besides the fact that most of the time we're covered from elbow to calves, the sun is really not powerful. It may be our latitude (sun is strongest at poles) or the time of year (October to December is winter here), but sunscreen isn't necessary. This means we can sit outside all day with no worries.
October 31st 2011
Happy Halloween!
We left Saukin early this morning. There were fleas in the beds and everyone was wanting to press on as quickly as possible. We drove forty minutes to the town of Port Sudan. It is difficult to believe that these two towns are in the same country, never mind so close. Port Sudan is modern looking, really modern. It could be easily mistaken for any European port city. There are expensive hotels, restaurants, and taxis. We set off looking for a place to sit and have tea, instead we found ice-cream and Internet; a good compromise!
After three hours in town we drove another thirty minutes to the Red Sea Resort. It is one of only two resorts on the Siamese Red Sea Coast. It is a charming place with little huts, scuba diving, and good food. It is not a luxury resort by any means, but after our living conditions of the last week, it seems like the best place in the world. The beds are clean, we aren't covered in dust, and the sun is shining.
We left Saukin early this morning. There were fleas in the beds and everyone was wanting to press on as quickly as possible. We drove forty minutes to the town of Port Sudan. It is difficult to believe that these two towns are in the same country, never mind so close. Port Sudan is modern looking, really modern. It could be easily mistaken for any European port city. There are expensive hotels, restaurants, and taxis. We set off looking for a place to sit and have tea, instead we found ice-cream and Internet; a good compromise!
After three hours in town we drove another thirty minutes to the Red Sea Resort. It is one of only two resorts on the Siamese Red Sea Coast. It is a charming place with little huts, scuba diving, and good food. It is not a luxury resort by any means, but after our living conditions of the last week, it seems like the best place in the world. The beds are clean, we aren't covered in dust, and the sun is shining.
October 30th 2011
Large piece of coral
This part of the exploratory adventure took a lot of driving. Today was our longest driving day by far, we drove for over five hours. But, we are now in the town of Saukin, located on the Red Sea! We couldn't stop on the way due to banditry. We did see some interesting things while driving though!
There was an overturned lorry (as my British travel friends called it). It was a flipped truck with tons of squished goats. The survivors were running around the road.
There were lots of villages along our route, filled with women in bright robes and children playing soccer. There seemed to be a serious lack of men in these very small towns, but we managed to find them upon our arrival to the 'city'. It seems most of the men work in these port jobs, rarely returning home. The town is set up to cater to them; there are very shabby hotels (more prison room style places), food joints, even the tea makers are men (a very traditionally female job in Sudan). The shops all sell little girls' party dresses, women's shoes, and handbags. We assumed that they must be used as gifts when the men do have time off.
During our drive we passed 63 packed army vehicles (with an average of 30 men or so in each). Although they all appeared to be in good spirits and waved at us joyfully, there was still the pressing question - where are they going? With Eritrea, Darfur, Somalia, and Djibouti so close, I suppose there is a need for military.
That being said I feel very safe in Sudan. Sharia Law is practiced here, meaning that crimes such as theft are punished so severely that few dare to commit them. Most people who speak English take great lengths to speak to us. They are genuinely interested in talking with us, unlike the huddling we experienced in Egypt. We are often invited in for tea or to stay at people's houses.
Rumor has it a Peace Agreement was signed in Darfur very recently. Without any access to internet or Western media here, it is hard to know, but I'm interested to read about it when I have the chance. People who meet us (especially police at check points) are always happy to see us, praising us for coming, despite the 'dark scars caused by the Darfur issue'. Similar to Egypt, it seems that Sudan is really suffering from a relatively (in the current state anyways) isolated issue that is creating a big stain on the country's reputation.
Right. So Saukin! We went to see the island where the Old Port stood. It was abandoned for unknown reasons between the Egyptian rule and the Roman rule. The entire town was made out of coral. It was mostly demolished, but there were many laborers working to try and rebuild the site, one colored block at a time.
After 6 days without a real shower we stayed in another prison style hotel. This one had a shower in the form of a tap in a room that stunk of urine. Ice cold water barely dribbling over me never felt so good after so long in the dust. Living like this really helps one realize what they are made of!
There was an overturned lorry (as my British travel friends called it). It was a flipped truck with tons of squished goats. The survivors were running around the road.
There were lots of villages along our route, filled with women in bright robes and children playing soccer. There seemed to be a serious lack of men in these very small towns, but we managed to find them upon our arrival to the 'city'. It seems most of the men work in these port jobs, rarely returning home. The town is set up to cater to them; there are very shabby hotels (more prison room style places), food joints, even the tea makers are men (a very traditionally female job in Sudan). The shops all sell little girls' party dresses, women's shoes, and handbags. We assumed that they must be used as gifts when the men do have time off.
During our drive we passed 63 packed army vehicles (with an average of 30 men or so in each). Although they all appeared to be in good spirits and waved at us joyfully, there was still the pressing question - where are they going? With Eritrea, Darfur, Somalia, and Djibouti so close, I suppose there is a need for military.
That being said I feel very safe in Sudan. Sharia Law is practiced here, meaning that crimes such as theft are punished so severely that few dare to commit them. Most people who speak English take great lengths to speak to us. They are genuinely interested in talking with us, unlike the huddling we experienced in Egypt. We are often invited in for tea or to stay at people's houses.
Rumor has it a Peace Agreement was signed in Darfur very recently. Without any access to internet or Western media here, it is hard to know, but I'm interested to read about it when I have the chance. People who meet us (especially police at check points) are always happy to see us, praising us for coming, despite the 'dark scars caused by the Darfur issue'. Similar to Egypt, it seems that Sudan is really suffering from a relatively (in the current state anyways) isolated issue that is creating a big stain on the country's reputation.
Right. So Saukin! We went to see the island where the Old Port stood. It was abandoned for unknown reasons between the Egyptian rule and the Roman rule. The entire town was made out of coral. It was mostly demolished, but there were many laborers working to try and rebuild the site, one colored block at a time.
After 6 days without a real shower we stayed in another prison style hotel. This one had a shower in the form of a tap in a room that stunk of urine. Ice cold water barely dribbling over me never felt so good after so long in the dust. Living like this really helps one realize what they are made of!
October 29th 2011
Although the Egyptians are the most famous creators of pyramids and decorated tombs, the Nubians created a large number as well. This morning we visited the Burial sites of kings and queens of Nubia near Karama. Unfortunately the tombs were locked to keep kids out. While there we saw a small group of Italian tourists. They had t-shirt tans and were wearing far too little clothing. We had a little giggle (along with the gaggle of local children who followed us around) at their expense. Then, we realized that we haven't had a real shower since Egypt. The Italians were probably having a good laugh at us as well.
That afternoon we drove to the town of Ataba. It is the location where the Nile goes south, rather than straight across Sudan. We stopped here to set up camp for the night and to buy some food for dinner. It was my turn to cook for the group - pressure was on! Walking around the market the choices seemed quite stark; potatoes, eggplant, carrots - each stand sold the same thing. Finally, something different caught my eye. It was the body (complete with tail) of an unidentified animal. Since we haven't eaten meat since leaving Egypt, I made my move. Purchasing the beast for the equivalent of $13 USD (complete with bones, fat, and testicles) was the easy part, butchering it was not so simple. It took me over an hour to cut the meat away from the body. It was then fried and added to the vegetables to make a stew. When your meat comes with a tail, from a questionable source, it is best the cook it for a very, very long time. By some miracle, the resulting stew was great! As for the species of meat, that remains a mystery.
Very recently the roads in Sudan were all covered in Tarmac by the Chinese. Drives that used to take a day on a dirt road now take an hour. The result for my group is that we finished our proposed Sudan itinerary today; we were supposed to finish in Khartoum on November 7th. We're over a week early. So, a new plan has been concocted, we're heading to the East coast (yes, very far away from Darfur, no need to worry)! The most exciting bit of this being, we will be the FIRST overland truck to do it. Ever. There are three companies carrying a few dozen passengers a year through Sudan and they never deviate from the Nile. We are heading off relatively blind. We have a 6 year old guidebook for Sudan [the only one ever published on the subject] that has proven relatively useless and out of date so far). If we don't run out of water on the way it will be very neat!
That afternoon we drove to the town of Ataba. It is the location where the Nile goes south, rather than straight across Sudan. We stopped here to set up camp for the night and to buy some food for dinner. It was my turn to cook for the group - pressure was on! Walking around the market the choices seemed quite stark; potatoes, eggplant, carrots - each stand sold the same thing. Finally, something different caught my eye. It was the body (complete with tail) of an unidentified animal. Since we haven't eaten meat since leaving Egypt, I made my move. Purchasing the beast for the equivalent of $13 USD (complete with bones, fat, and testicles) was the easy part, butchering it was not so simple. It took me over an hour to cut the meat away from the body. It was then fried and added to the vegetables to make a stew. When your meat comes with a tail, from a questionable source, it is best the cook it for a very, very long time. By some miracle, the resulting stew was great! As for the species of meat, that remains a mystery.
Very recently the roads in Sudan were all covered in Tarmac by the Chinese. Drives that used to take a day on a dirt road now take an hour. The result for my group is that we finished our proposed Sudan itinerary today; we were supposed to finish in Khartoum on November 7th. We're over a week early. So, a new plan has been concocted, we're heading to the East coast (yes, very far away from Darfur, no need to worry)! The most exciting bit of this being, we will be the FIRST overland truck to do it. Ever. There are three companies carrying a few dozen passengers a year through Sudan and they never deviate from the Nile. We are heading off relatively blind. We have a 6 year old guidebook for Sudan [the only one ever published on the subject] that has proven relatively useless and out of date so far). If we don't run out of water on the way it will be very neat!
October 28th 2011
The Malarone pills are killing me. Slowly, but surly... I'm certain of it. Antimalarials are supposed to protect you from getting sick, but the side affects are so awful. I have a feeling that malaria might be equally awful though...
We drove to a small village that is home to the Jebel Baka; pyramids and tombs. They are significantly smaller than those in Egypt, but much less touristy. The absence of hawkers selling plastic pyramids is welcoming. There are no restrictions on photography, which is both cool (since we get photos) and sad (because it shows how little anyone cares for the sites).
We camped off the road, beside the Nile. Almost instantly after setting up we were bombarded by children. They spoke little English, but were very interested in us. We swam in the Nile (bathed is a more accurate term since we haven't seen a proper shower since Aswan) and the children laughed at us. We asked our Sudanese guide what they were saying and he shyly said, "they think your women dress like men and that you're terrible swimmers'. I looked down at the men's shorts and shirt that I'd borrowed from my tour leader and laughed. They were certainly right! All the women in our group had covered up in baggy tops and men's swimming shorts in an effort not to offend the locals- a stark contrast to the elaborately draped women who live here.
As for our swimming skills, they were right about that as well. Walking into the Nile, there was about a one foot stretch of six inch deep water and then a drop off into deep water. The current is really strong, so going into the deep area carries you downstream fast! The little children let it carry them away and then paddled back with ease; we were less skillful.
The little boys (we didn't see any girls) stayed with us all afternoon, until we started eating our dinner. At that point one of their mothers showed up. She spoke English (much more then our Arabic) and asked us many questions. She took the boys back to her house so we could eat in peace. But the next morning, as soon as we came out of our tents, the boys were back, along with more friends and three mothers. We were the star attraction of the small town.
We drove to a small village that is home to the Jebel Baka; pyramids and tombs. They are significantly smaller than those in Egypt, but much less touristy. The absence of hawkers selling plastic pyramids is welcoming. There are no restrictions on photography, which is both cool (since we get photos) and sad (because it shows how little anyone cares for the sites).
We camped off the road, beside the Nile. Almost instantly after setting up we were bombarded by children. They spoke little English, but were very interested in us. We swam in the Nile (bathed is a more accurate term since we haven't seen a proper shower since Aswan) and the children laughed at us. We asked our Sudanese guide what they were saying and he shyly said, "they think your women dress like men and that you're terrible swimmers'. I looked down at the men's shorts and shirt that I'd borrowed from my tour leader and laughed. They were certainly right! All the women in our group had covered up in baggy tops and men's swimming shorts in an effort not to offend the locals- a stark contrast to the elaborately draped women who live here.
As for our swimming skills, they were right about that as well. Walking into the Nile, there was about a one foot stretch of six inch deep water and then a drop off into deep water. The current is really strong, so going into the deep area carries you downstream fast! The little children let it carry them away and then paddled back with ease; we were less skillful.
The little boys (we didn't see any girls) stayed with us all afternoon, until we started eating our dinner. At that point one of their mothers showed up. She spoke English (much more then our Arabic) and asked us many questions. She took the boys back to her house so we could eat in peace. But the next morning, as soon as we came out of our tents, the boys were back, along with more friends and three mothers. We were the star attraction of the small town.
October 27th 2011
This crocodile didn't get away!
The truck barge came in at 5pm yesterday. It sat there until 3pm today, because the owner of the truck at the front of the barge chose not to show up until then. What he possibly could have been doing in town is a mystery...
Oh well, when we finally got to leave we went to a great camp a few hundred kilometers south from Wadi Halfa. There are crocodiles, men in white dresses, and a few really cute kids. The Nile is gorgeous and the scenery great!
Oh well, when we finally got to leave we went to a great camp a few hundred kilometers south from Wadi Halfa. There are crocodiles, men in white dresses, and a few really cute kids. The Nile is gorgeous and the scenery great!
October 26th 2011
Our truck was due to arrive before us, but the barge carrying our truck is still crossing Lake Nasser. As such, we are spending another day in Wadi Halfa. The guide book refers to this town as the waiting room of Africa. I can see why.
The original town was ruined following the creation of the high dam. The town was flooded and the people relocated nearby. The result is a very temporary looking town. There are hotels and restaurants, but no effort has been put into their upkeep. All the hotels are the same prison rooms, or if you're unlucky, one of the 'lower end' places, which is just a bunch of metal cots in a courtyard. The restaurants serve BBQ fish or chicken with beans. The beans come smothered in vegetable oil. Asking for no oil only results in you getting twice as much oil.
The toilets are the most basic feature. Time is spent people watching in the downtown area (a two minute span from end to end) Gives you the impression that most of the men just urinate behind the buildings, in the sand. The hundreds of cats and dogs running around go where ever they please. We are slightly more lucky. Our hotel has a hole in the ground that is surrounded by three walls and a door. The privacy is a plus, however the stench a hundred people defecating leaves behind is a minus.
But, for $2 US a night, what more can you expect?
October 25th 2011
A high-end Sudanese Hotel.
A few thoughts from the boat (which must not be taken as complaints, rather, observations in an attempt to explain to you what it was like:
There was a man throwing his luggage out my tiny window onto the port below. There were no locks on our doors and apparently no sense of person space.
We've been docked, but not let off the boat for ages. They took our passports hours ago. The first page of my passport says to take every precaution to safeguard it. I'm not sure that giving it to a man with no uniform in a motor boat counts as that.
Just filled out a form requesting the same information for the third time. I think each form keeps a different person employed.
As for the toilets, I'll let the photos speak for that one.
We finally arrived at our hotel in the evening. The best descriptor of our rooms would be prison. Three metal cots on a concrete room. That's it. Thankfully, there was power (in between the power outages), so my German friend and I watched TV in our tour leader's (Tom and Daniel) room. Interesting how modern technology manages to permeate even the most unlikely of places.
There was a man throwing his luggage out my tiny window onto the port below. There were no locks on our doors and apparently no sense of person space.
We've been docked, but not let off the boat for ages. They took our passports hours ago. The first page of my passport says to take every precaution to safeguard it. I'm not sure that giving it to a man with no uniform in a motor boat counts as that.
Just filled out a form requesting the same information for the third time. I think each form keeps a different person employed.
As for the toilets, I'll let the photos speak for that one.
We finally arrived at our hotel in the evening. The best descriptor of our rooms would be prison. Three metal cots on a concrete room. That's it. Thankfully, there was power (in between the power outages), so my German friend and I watched TV in our tour leader's (Tom and Daniel) room. Interesting how modern technology manages to permeate even the most unlikely of places.
October 24th 2011
Hi ho hi ho, it's off to Sudan I go!
We got the visas and we're getting on the ferry in 2.5 hours. It's supposed to take 24 hours; we'll see about that! Zrooooom!
Most men stop and stare or make comments when they see me, but I have yet to experience anything more than that do to my gender or race (although those things may have more to do with my blond hair and age than anything else). Today that changed.
My American travel buddy and I went to a salon to get sugaring done. It is the traditional form of waxing in the Middle East (Egyptians refer to themselves and Middle Eastern, not African). We figured it would be a good way to experience local culture while not having to worry about shaving for a few weeks. When we inquired about the prices the woman manning the shop informed us that she would not do it. We asked if any of the other shops in the area would. Nope. Later in the evening the woman at the front desk of our hotel told us the reason that we were refused was that it is believed that white women are so sexually charged that we would derive pleasure from the sugaring. Right... Nothing feels better than having your hair ripped out! (I suppose we have the global airing of shows like Desperate Housewives to thank for that notion...).
The opposite occurred when it was time for us to board the ferry to Sudan. The process started at noon and took around two hours before we got onto the ferry. Once we reached the ferry we were pushed through the crowded passage way, through a gate (which was opened just enough for us to squeeze through) and up some stairs to the cabin area. It was then that I realized that only white people were on the boat. The Sudanese and Egyptians were still downstairs, behind the gate. Hmmm...
Our room was one of about two dozen on the boat. They were 'first-class rooms'. The rooms consisted of a bunk bed and a window (if you were lucky, about half of the rooms didn't have a window). Our cabin came with decoration; there was a 2007 calendar glued to the wall. By comparison to the rest of the seating, our cabin was pretty luxurious. There were several hundred passengers crowded into the deck of the boat. About 90% of the people on the boat were traders, bringing items into Sudan that isn’t readily available. So, in addition to the people the deck was covered with about ten large boxes per person. Biscuits, washing machines, and a bunch of plastic dolphins. It was difficult to move without stepping on someone or something.
We got one meal ticket, which was to be used for dinner. Food was served on a metal tray; beans covered in vegetable oil, dirty grapes, a hardboiled egg and bread. I might starve.
Living the dream folks, just living the dream!
We got the visas and we're getting on the ferry in 2.5 hours. It's supposed to take 24 hours; we'll see about that! Zrooooom!
Most men stop and stare or make comments when they see me, but I have yet to experience anything more than that do to my gender or race (although those things may have more to do with my blond hair and age than anything else). Today that changed.
My American travel buddy and I went to a salon to get sugaring done. It is the traditional form of waxing in the Middle East (Egyptians refer to themselves and Middle Eastern, not African). We figured it would be a good way to experience local culture while not having to worry about shaving for a few weeks. When we inquired about the prices the woman manning the shop informed us that she would not do it. We asked if any of the other shops in the area would. Nope. Later in the evening the woman at the front desk of our hotel told us the reason that we were refused was that it is believed that white women are so sexually charged that we would derive pleasure from the sugaring. Right... Nothing feels better than having your hair ripped out! (I suppose we have the global airing of shows like Desperate Housewives to thank for that notion...).
The opposite occurred when it was time for us to board the ferry to Sudan. The process started at noon and took around two hours before we got onto the ferry. Once we reached the ferry we were pushed through the crowded passage way, through a gate (which was opened just enough for us to squeeze through) and up some stairs to the cabin area. It was then that I realized that only white people were on the boat. The Sudanese and Egyptians were still downstairs, behind the gate. Hmmm...
Our room was one of about two dozen on the boat. They were 'first-class rooms'. The rooms consisted of a bunk bed and a window (if you were lucky, about half of the rooms didn't have a window). Our cabin came with decoration; there was a 2007 calendar glued to the wall. By comparison to the rest of the seating, our cabin was pretty luxurious. There were several hundred passengers crowded into the deck of the boat. About 90% of the people on the boat were traders, bringing items into Sudan that isn’t readily available. So, in addition to the people the deck was covered with about ten large boxes per person. Biscuits, washing machines, and a bunch of plastic dolphins. It was difficult to move without stepping on someone or something.
We got one meal ticket, which was to be used for dinner. Food was served on a metal tray; beans covered in vegetable oil, dirty grapes, a hardboiled egg and bread. I might starve.
Living the dream folks, just living the dream!
